General Raleigh History

Inns_and_Taverns_Cassos_Museum_of_History_0

Drawing of Casso’s Inn by Hope Summerell Chamberlain for ‘The History of Wake County North Carolina, Raleigh, N.C.’: Edwards & Broughton Printing Company, 1922. Image from the North Carolina Museum of History.

Casso’s Inn was the largest and most popular hostelry in the early years of Raleigh. The inn (sometimes called a tavern) was best known for a traditional association with Andrew Johnson, seventeenth president of the United States. Built between 1790 and 1795 by Peter Casso, who had come to Raleigh from Beaufort County, the inn stood on the northeast corner of Fayetteville Street (Lot 162 in the plan of the city) diagonally across from the statehouse. Its only competitor was the Indian Queen, which it quickly surpassed in patronage and size. Despite the popularity and apparent success of his inn, Peter Casso proved to be an inefficient businessman. By 1799 he had established a pattern of indebtedness from which he would never recover.

Local tradition maintains that Andrew Johnson’s mother, Mary “Polly” McDonough, worked at Casso’s Inn as a weaver before she married Jacob Johnson, and that Andrew was born in one of the kitchens then serving as the Johnsons’ home. Extensive research neither upholds the truth of the story nor proves it false beyond a doubt. In the absence of conclusive evidence to the contrary, the tradition will continue to claim a place in the history of Casso’s Inn.

https://www.ncpedia.org/inns-and-taverns

From UNC History Professor Kemp Plummer Battle’s 'The Early History of Raleigh, the Capital City of North Carolina: A Centennial Address (October 18, 1892) -

‘The earliest taverns were Casso’s, next to the Capitol Square on the south, on the east side of Fayetteville street; the Indian Queen, kept by Captain Scott on the site of the Federal court-house and post-office; the Eagle Hotel, built in 1812 by Charles Parish, of three stories, the first brick-house, according to Govern Swain, in the city, with the exception of the State-house, located north of Union Square, and existing to this day, improved and remodeled into the State Agricultural Building.’

(Advertisement for the Indian Queen Tavern in the North Carolina Star newpaper, dated 25 Jan 1810.)

'John Stewart, the merchant, so called to distinguish him from John Stewart, the blacksmith, is said to have been the first to open a store for business. He married Hannah, the daughter of Peter Casso, the hotel-keeper. When President Johnson was born his fahter was an hostler at the hotel, and Mrs. Casso gave the name to the new-born child. It was intended to call him Andrew Jackson Johnson, but his father objected to have so long a name, and the Jackson was omitted."

‘About the year 1800 a new court house was erected on the Fayetteville street site - rectangular, of wood, of the shape of the old-fashioned country meeting-house. This was sold about 1835, and removed bodily to the southeast corner of Wilmington and Davie streets, and was for a long time a family residence, and then Cook’s hotel. The brick structure which replaced it [the courthouse] was built in 1835, and remodeled in 1882, at which time the statue of Justice was placed over its front as a guardian and monitor.’

Most of the talk of Battle’s presentation in 1892 was of the venerable Yarborough House and the then brand-new Park Hotel.

Summerill goes further about Cooke’s/City Hotel at 401 S Wilmington (currently the Red Hat Building) - 'As late as 1803, Henry H. Cooke advertises that living at ‘Wake old Court-House, about a quarter of a mile of the State-House, he can accomodate 10 or 12 gentlemen with board during the [legislative] session, and will take a few horses to feed at 2s.6d. (25 cts) a day.’

‘A gentleman tells me that many years ago he was at Cooke’s Hotel, when besides himself Chief Justice [John] Marshall and Judge [Duncan] Cameron were the only guests. A traveler drove up and asked for quarters. The answer was, “I can’t take you, I am full.” The furniture of Judge Marshall’s room consisted of a bed and bedstead, two split-bottom chairs, a pine table covered with grease and ink, a cracked pitcher and broken bowl. The next morning when breakfast came on, the host, disdaining the use of forks, transferred them from the dish to his plate pieces of dismembered fowl with his fingers.’

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@Mark with that rendering as a reference, Casso’s Inn was still standing in Drie’s aerial view from 1872. The physical address would have been 101 Fayetteville Street.

In my hotel table there were a string of establishments at that address; Branson House, Capital Inn, Hotel Turner, Belmont Hotel, Capital Hotel, and finally Colonial Hotel before moving across the street. I need to look at Albert Barden’s photo collection of Fayetteville Street, but it would be incredible to think that Casso’s survived into the early 20th Century.

However, in Hope Summerell Chamberlain’s ’ History of Wake County, North Carolina: With Sketches of Those who Have Most Influenced Its Development’ on Page 94, ‘By 1800, there were two hotels. The first one, Casso’s, still [1922] stands on the corner of Morgan and Fayetteville Streets opposite the State Library Building, is especially in excellent repair, and were the fire escapes and such modern additions taken away, would remains much as it used to be when the stages rolled to the door.’

:exploding_head:

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On examination and after a first pass running the retail grocers through the Google Map’s geocoder there’s quite a bit of clean-up work on the addresses that needs to be done. Even then, some locations would need to be researched and located manually. I don’t have a ton of faith in the accuracy of these locations, but if you don’t look too closely you can sort of get a sense of their distribution.

A lot of cool stuff in this thread!

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Now, here’s the photographic record of my discovery. Using Albert Barden’s sequence of photographs from the North Carolina Archives looking down Fayetteville Street, Casso’s Inn and it’s various subsequent names (at 101-107 Fayetteville St) would have been on the left where the North Carolina State Courthouse now sits…

1925 (Still there - 101: C W Ellington Co; 101 1/2: N C State Adjutant General; 103: Graham’s Grocer/Electrik Maid Bakery; 107: The Corset Shop/Powell and Powell, Inc)

1930 (Still there - 101: Vacant; 101 1/2: N C Education Assn; 103: Junior League Gift Shop & Library/Land’s Inc Jwlrs; 105: Vacant; 105 1/2: Vacant; 107 Powell & Powell Inc coal/Perry’s clnrs)

1935 (Still there - 101: Allen’s Market gros; 101 1/2: N C Education Association/Boy Scouts of America; 103: Johnson’s Jewelers; 103 1/2 Jesmaid Ice Cream; 105: Uzzle Cigar Store; 107: Eliza B Ennis’ Lingerie Shop/YWCA; 107 1/2: Perry’s Tailors)

1940 (The orginal Casso’s Inn structure has been demolished, but the addition at 107 Fayetteville: David Kaplan’s Women’s Wear/Capital Millinery remains. That addition was later demolished and the Lawyer’s Weekly Building from 1973 presently stands in its place.)

Obviously there was no preservation movement in place during 1940 while the state was effecting it’s Beaux Arts and Art Deco campus surrounding the State House. But, trying to renovate and restore a 145 year-old wood frame structure which had been used pretty heavily over that interval would have been a challenge, to say the least.

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Excellent detective work!
Not only do you show the disappearance of Casso’s, but also the trolley tracks are torn up at the same time frame.
Thanks for your work on this!!

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That conflicts with Elizabeth Reid Murray’s book on Wake which says Casso’s Inn started in a building in 1795 that was Alford’s Tavern in 1794 (Murray pg 90n). Casso’s was destroyed by fire in the 1830’s and by 1835 George Mordecai and Gavin Hogg had built the Hogg building on the site (Murray pg 267) which is what is seen on Drie. The building you are showing is the Hogg building.

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Interesting. So, Chamberlain in 1922 perpetuated a myth that the building she drew was the original Casso’s. What Murray indicates corroborates Battle’s recollection (Page 48) about the fires.

FIRES.

The first fire-engine in the city was bought by voluntary contributions in 1802. It employed sixteen hands, throwing eighty gallons per minute one hundred and thirty-two feet, and cost $374.* Eleven years later the city bought a new engine, and in 1821 the first regular fire company was organized. Six years before this an abortive attempt to supply the city with water was made. A water wheel worked
from a pond in front of the Insane Asylum hill, made by damming Rocky branch, forced the water to the top of a water-tower on a hill in the southwest part of the city, whence it flowed by gravity to Hargett and along Fayetteville street.

There was no filtration. The water was delivered at intervals through spouts. The engineer was Samuel Lash of Salem, an ingenious mechanic. The pipes were of wood. They became frequently clogged with mud. Often they burst with the pressure. Lash died and was succeeded by his son, who was a drunkard. The citizens living on the streets not benefited became clamorous against the taxation
levied for repairs, and the scheme was abandoned.

With these meagre means for extinguishing fires, and the buildings being mainly of wood, it is not surprising that conflagrations were extensive. That of 1816 swept from Martin to Hargett on the east side of Fayetteville street, and thence almost to Wilmington street. The house at the corner of Wilmington and Martin was saved by the timely use of ten barrels of vinegar.

The fire of 1821 burnt over the same district, beginning where the market-house stands, then it crossed Hargett and was only stopped by the pluck of Mrs. Hannah Stewart, which saved her dwelling standing on the land occupied by Tucker hall. She saved it again from a fire which consumed all the buildings north to Morgan street, but about twenty years afterwards a third fire prevailed even over her heroic energy.

At another time all the buildings on the west side of Fayetteville street from Morgan to Hargett, with the exception of that next to Morgan, then belonging to the Newbern bank, were swept away. This was kindled by an incendiary, Benjamin F. Seaborn, a clerk of Richard Smith, who endeavored by arson to hide the crime of theft. Smith was County Register, and twenty registry books were destroyed with his store-house, causing much confusion of titles in our county. It is gratifying to know that Seaborn was hung for his crime.

*The steam fire-engine (Rescue) now in use [1892] is capable of throwing a vertical stream of 126 feet 600 gallons per minute.

Am wondering if the structure demolished by 1940 at 101 Fayetteville Street bore any resemblance to the original Casso’s while being built of brick and masonry.

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The fire that destroyed seems to be well documented. Casso’s was wooden. Check out Murray…that same picture is credited as the Hogg building. I cited the pages.

RE this portion, this was the logic I also pulled from Murray that led me to believe City Hotel on Drie is the 1795 courthouse and is still standing on the 1903 Sanborn, thus I believe there could be a picture of it somewhere.

I’m extremely interested in finding a photo of this building so we’d have a photo every courthouse that stood in Raleigh proper.

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Ok, sorry I didn’t read where you investigated further.

@Mark - I’ve been meaning to stop by Olivia Raney Library and get my own copies of Murray. Thanks for the nudge.

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The ncpedia listing/caption talks about the ‘Drawing of Casso’s Inn by Hope Summerell Chamberlain’ not giving any hint that it was a rebuild of the original structure.

https://www.ncpedia.org/inns-and-taverns

But, going directly to Chamberlain’s book, her captain actually reads: “Casso’s Tavern” as it looked in the olden time. It was the second brick building in Raleigh, corner of Fayetteville and Morgan Streets.

I’ll get a Murray, and see if I can clean things up. It was the Eagle Hotel, built in 1812, that was touted as the first brick structure in Raleigh. So, Chamberlain’s drawing can’t be entirely correct as the original Casso’s was built between 1790-1795 as a wooden strucure and likely burned in one of the fires mentioned by Battle.

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I’ll look over Murray tonight on brick buildings…there is a mention something along the lines of ‘at least a dozen blah blah’ but I forget. I thought the original statehouse was brick and think the original presbyterian church at Salisbury and Morgan, circa 1810 was too.

Thanks. I didn’t realize the Olivia Raney was closed for construction. [And, all other libraries are closed for that matter as well.] So, I’ll have to wait a week for my copies to arrive.

So I was wrong about the Church (1818) but the Eagle was the 3rd (but 1st hotel) according to Murray. The Statehouse (1795), and Joseph Gales’ Register paper building (1804) were earlier. It said by the 1816 fire there were a dozen brick buildings (including the ‘Palace’) and that spurred the construction of many others for fire resistance.

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Here’s an interesting read regarding the old Neuse River area prior to Falls Lake.

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So, the original airport, Devereux Meadow ball field, and this just dropped. Raleigh Speedway.

(Which is apparently a recycled story mentioned here from WTVD back in 02/2019)

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I’m still trying to study the maps and figure out where this was located. My guess is the old AVX site on Atlantic Avenue.

And, this echoes the occurrence of drag boat races which were once held at Gresham Lake, back in the day. Raleigh was a happening place.

Were the boats in drag or the people? Sounds fun either way… I’m realizing now this is probably something else.

Behind Duke Raleigh… Atlantic ave just north of the beltline, modern day Tarheel dr

1959:

Current:

Could still kinda see it in 1971:

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